December 12th-15th, 2024
Phu
Quoc (pronounced “foo-wok”…we think) is the largest island in Vietnam with
about 180,000 inhabitants. Since Naomi’s
vacation is winding down, she also wanted to wind down with some “beach
time”. It was a short 35-40 minute
flight west from Ho Chi Minh City to the Bay of Thailand, where the island sits
about 40 kilometers from the mainland of Vietnam, but only 10 kilometers from
Cambodia. Although our flight was
delayed, we lucked out and the shuttle driver from our resort waited for us and
a couple of Israeli ladies who were on the same flight.
Arriving at the airport.
We were booked at the Ocean
Bay Resort for three nights and Naomi only had three main things that she
wanted to do while on the island, so there would be some chill time. In fact, that was the order of our first
day. We had lunch while waiting for our
room to be ready, explored the resort and then hung out on the beach in the
late afternoon and went for a swim in the ocean, which was incredibly calm for
our whole stay. The water was a lovely
temperature and it was a lovely sandy beach.
The next morning, we rented a scooter from a couple who had
a small shop and guesthouse across the road from our resort. I befriended the man, Tray, the day before
with the help of Google Translate at times.
The number one item of our “to do” list was to go on the cable cars at
the south end of the island that take you to an amusement park and resort.
It was about 45 kilometres from our resort to the small,
strange development called An Thoi and we were on a bit of a clock as we found
out that morning that the cable car ran until 11:30, stopped and then started
up again at 1:30. It seemed very weird
to us. Thankfully the roads were fine
and there wasn’t much traffic.
The reason I said that An
Thoi was strange is that it was built in 2019 and it’s a replica of a
European village, mainly an Italian motif it seemed complete with an imitation
of the clock tower in Venice. From her
prior research before the trip, Naomi told me that the place was mostly vacant. It was definitely the opposite of “If you
build it, they will come”. This was another development by Sun World
Group, the same company that built Ba
Na Hills, the strange amusement park up on a mountain near Danang that we
visited.
With ten minutes to spare, we hopped on the cable car, which
holds the record for the longest 3-wire cable car in the world at 7899.9 meters
(you’d think they could have squeezed another 10 centimeters out of the
project). It was a fifteen-minute ride
over a couple of islands to arrive at our destination. The concrete support poles on the islands
must have been around 200 meters tall. I
couldn’t help but marvel at the effort and logistics that must have been
involved in the construction.
We had a bird’s eye view of the amusement park as we neared
the end of our ride, but once we were on the ground, walking around, the
signage was pretty poor, and we didn’t really know where we were going. We had spotted a wooden roller coaster that I
wanted to check out, but it took us a little while to find it. After a ten-minute walk, we finally found the
“Roaring Timbers Roller Coaster”. I
thought I would have to buy a ticket to ride it as there was a ticket counter
at the roller coaster, but another tourist told us that our cable car ticket
allowed us to go on any ride in the park that we wanted to. Sweet!
However, it turns out that that wasn’t the greatest offer as like Ba Na
Hills, there weren’t actually that many rides.
Since roller coasters aren’t Naomi’s thing, she watched as I
hopped on. The woman sitting next to me
was part of a Russian trio of ladies and she hardly spoke any English. From my time in India, where there are a lot
of Russian tourists, I at least knew “previat” which is hello in Russian, which
garnered a smile from her. The ride was
better than expected and I forgot how “clickety-clackety” a wooden roller
coaster is.
Exiting the ride, we were greeted by rain, and we were ill
prepared. I had my tiny umbrella and a
long, cheap rain jacket but Naomi didn’t have anything. Not too far from the roller coaster was
another ride that was more of an observation deck kind of thing, a circular pod
that rose up about 50 meters and then rotated around. We thought it would be a great way to avoid
the rain as it was enclosed, but after waiting in the line-up for 10 minutes,
they shut down the ride since…it was raining!
After finding a store to buy a cheap rain poncho for Naomi,
we looked around for a place to get some lunch but didn’t have any luck. We decided to wait until our next stop after
this strange amusement park, which was a beach on the southeast coast of the
island which was supposed to be pristine and beautiful. Making our way back to the cable car station,
it was only 1:15 pm but after waiting five minutes, they started up the cable
car then minutes early and we were on the first car to head back to the main
island.
The nice beach we were headed to next was called Sao
Beach. It was about 15 minutes away on
the scooter and it was a lovely spot.
After a few “Insta” photos, we shared some fish and chips (fish not bad,
chips cold…) and then rode back to the resort.
It had been a long day already.
That evening we took a Grab to another nearby resort called
Camia, as they had good reviews online. The
staff at Camia were friendly and attentive and the food was yummy.
On our second full day on Phu Quoc, we still had the rented
scooter, so the plan was to check out the north part of the island, with the
primary goal being to visit “Starfish Beach”.
As you would assume, we hoped to see starfish there, which like the
squirrels and chipmunks in Ho Chi Minh City, Naomi’s never seen starfish in the
wild so that was her motivation to go there.
It wasn’t as far to ride on the bike as yesterday’s journey,
and we weren’t on a schedule, so I rode relatively slowly and we both enjoyed
the countryside. We stopped briefly at a
pepper farm where Naomi talked to the local farmer to learn the nuances of
growing this spice. They only harvest
once per year, in January. I asked him
how big the place was. They had 1000
plants, which would take 3-4 people a few months to pick all of the pepper and
they would produce 1-2 thousands kilograms of pepper…enough to make the effort
worthwhile!
As we got closer to Starfish Beach, the pavement disappeared
and we bumped along a sandy road.
Passing a small group of houses, a guy on a motorbike caught up to us
and asked if we were headed to Starfish Beach.
He led us there, and I couldn’t help but wonder what his ulterior motive
was.
Turns out it wasn’t anything to worry about. What I didn’t realize was that you had to
take boat, or walk about 2 kilometres along the beach, to get to “Starfish
Beach”, where there were starfish in the water.
The guy on the bike explained that it was 200,000 each ($11-12 CAD) to
get a boat ride to and from the beach.
Seemed like an okay deal, and after that bumpy road, we were definitely
going. He must have been earning a
commission on bringing customers.
After the short ride on the long, skinny boat, we arrived at
a gorgeous sandy beach with a wooden pier jutting out into the clear blue water. Almost
immediately we could see that there were starfish in the shallow waters. Naomi was over the moon…I guess she should
have been over the stars!
The beach was “Instagram Heaven”, with a few swings in and
by the water, a built-up staircase on the pier, some wooden pieces strung
together that looked like horses, and of course the starfish. Both Naomi and I, probably more so Naomi, did
get a perturbed by how the “Instagrammers” were picking up starfish, placing
them where they need them for their photo or even holding them out of the water. They must not have realized that this
stresses a starfish out, starves them of oxygen, and can possibly kill
them. Oh humans, we have a lot to learn
to live in harmony with other species on this planet.
After a bit more than an hour, with me having a nap in a
rented beach chair, it was time to leave.
Our original plan had us heading to another part of the northwest coast
of the island to peer out at the islands of Cambodia, but we were already a bit
tired, and more importantly hungry. So
screw that, we continued on to Camia Resort for a late lunch.
He kept wanting to jump on me.
Back at our resort, we relaxed and dined at the same
restaurant across from our resort from two nights prior. Can’t say that the food was that great, but
we went for convenient.
The next day we flew back to Ho Chi Minh City, where we will stay for a couple of nights and then Naomi will fly to Bangkok before heading home as her vacation is winding down. Still, we have one more site to see while she’s here which we were both excited about, the Cu Chi Tunnels from the Vietnam War.
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