Friday, January 24, 2025

The Boat Ride to Siem Reap

January 18th, 2025 

From Battambang, one can take a 3-hour bus ride or a 5-6 hour boat ride (I read even up to 8 hours online).  The boat ride is more expensive than the bus ($30 vs $12), and the operators are definitely overcharging tourists for the boat excursion.  Hmm…which to do?  Well, I’ve been on a few bus rides lately, and who doesn’t like a boat ride?  I know I do.  So, I purchased a ticket through the guesthouse and was told to be ready for a pickup at 6:30 am.

 

At about ten minutes to 7, the guesthouse worker called someone to check that the pickup was still coming, and it thankfully was.  A couple of young German guys were also taking the boat.  The three of us with our backpacks jumped in the trailer of a motorcycle tuk tuk and headed across the city to a spot by the river where a pickup truck was parked, loaded with tourists sitting in the back on bench seats, with a pile of luggage in the middle of the truck bed between them.  They looked full…but no, where there’s a will, there’s a way.

 

The driver of the truck told all the tourists to get out of the truck and he proceeded to strap six large backpacks and suitcases on a roof rack above the cab of the vehicle.  He placed half of a tarp across the open tailgate, placed bags on it and then roped the other side of the tarp over the gear, including my backpack.  Okay, he definitely freed up space for a few more of us and this could work…but then another tuk tuk showed up with 3 more tourists, a couple of women and a man, all French and in the late 60s.  The driver and the tuk tuk driver looked perplexed and eventually said that they would have to get another vehicle.

 

I had already claimed a spot on the bench seat of the truck that was present, but the Germans and the three new arrivals would have to wait for the other truck.  After waiting about 20 minutes, our driver decided to get on the road and the others would catch up to us.  We seemed to go on a bit of a milk run leaving town.  We stopped so the driver could put air in the truck tires, pulled over by what we assumed was his house as a woman came out and gave him some lunch in a container and picked up some package from another location.

 

Soon we left the paved streets and started into the countryside, following the river, which was very low and not suitable for a boat that could ferry all of these tourists without running aground.  I had read about this on some online reviews, but we were only into the dry season by a month or so and I expected the water levels to be higher, as did some of the other tourists.  But these days with climate change, things seem to swing wildly one way and then the other.

 

The road got bumpier and bumpier and occasionally a few of us near the back of the truck got airborne (all of an inch off of the seat…but still).  We started to chat a bit and get to know each other.  There were a couple of teachers from Perth in their mid 50s named Derek and Kate.  Another couple from France, probably late 30s or early 40s but I never got their name.  A young woman from the same area in France named Cora.  A man in his early 30s named Sam, who hailed from Wales, was on a very different trip than most.  He had quit his insurance underwriter job in London and travelled through Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and also Vietnam…and he said that he’d only been travelling for 3 months.  He must have been moving quickly.


Our bumpy truck ride.


It was interesting to see how the homes of the locals got more and more basic as we ventured further from the city.  It really makes you appreciate how lucky we are in the Western world when you see how people are living here.


The water level was low.


A little boat convoy passed by.

As the truck slowed down to navigate the bumps, that allowed the dust to catch up to the vehicle and coated all of us, especially those right in the back.  I was the second last guy towards the end of the truck and got a bit dirty, but poor Sam started the morning with a white t-shirt, but now it was closer to a tan colour!

 

From online research before the trip, I was under the impression that we would have a 45-minute truck ride to get to the boat.  It turned out to be about double that.  I guess it can depend on the water levels and even though we were just a month into the dry season, it had been a long time since this area has seen rain.

 

After about an hour and a half, we stopped at a house near the river.  The guide told us that we were going to wait for the other truck with the five remaining tourists to catch up to us.  It was a good time to meet and talk with some of the other tourists.  There was one couple, probably late 60s or early 70s, and the woman was Cambodian but lived in France since the 70s.  They were cute as they were constantly holding hands or had one arm around the other.  She was great as she was the translator for what was going on.  After the guide received a phone call, she relayed that other truck was delayed, it got stuck in the mud…


This is where we stopped for almost an hour, waiting for the other truck with the remaining 5 tourists to catch up to us.

The woman in the middle is Patricia from Italy, hanging out with the ladies of the household.

The kitchen of the house.

This big truck passed by as we were waiting for our other vehicle.  We would meet up with it again at the boat as it was going to haul a bunch of tiny fish back to town.

An hour later, we were told to get back in the truck and we continued our drive even though the other vehicle hadn’t caught up to us.  Oddly, only about a kilometre later we arrived at the boat.  Huh?!?  A few of us Westerners mused that we could have walked there from the house, and they could have sent our truck back to retrieve the others…but hey, logic doesn’t always win.


We finally made it to our boat!

Beside our boat was a smaller vessel that was full of tiny fish that had been caught.  The fish covered the floor of the boat and was maybe about a foot and a half deep in the middle.  A plank was set down from the riverbank to our vessel and it crossed over the fishing boat.  This was how we were going to get on our boat.  Whoa, that sure ups the ante.  I wouldn’t want to fall into that fish slop!


They are setting up the plank for us to get onboard the boar.  The little boat that they are standing in is full of tiny fish that they have caught.

Walking the plank!

That's a lot of fish!

I'm not sure how heavy that basket of fish was...but it looked heavy, especially walking along that plank that now has slippery fish water on it from repeated trips.  Not a job that I would want to have.

About fifteen minutes after we boarded, the other truck showed up with the five tourists, they hopped on, and we were off…finally as it was 12 pm already.  It was very slow going at first, barely faster than walking speed as the river was narrow and windy and the water level was still quite low.


Finally we are on our way!

The start of the trip was super slow...like walking speed.

For the next couple of hours, we passed by a handful of tiny villages.  The houses were very basic, some just made of a wooden frame and corrugated sheets of metal for the roof and walls.  They must be an absolute oven in the hot season.  Other homes were modified boats which were no longer functional, so they were dragged up onto the land.  Sadly, there was a large amount of plastic garbage strewn along the banks, from the houses to the shoreline.


Passing the first small village on the banks of the river.  The houses were super basic.

Old boats that were no longer safe to ply the waters, were now turned into houses.

A longtail boat passing by.

The company's other boat passing by in the other direction.  I had read online that one boat was not as nice as the other one and you had a 50/50 chance as to which one you got as they go back and forth from Battambang to Siem Reap every day.  Thankfully we got the bigger, better boat.  This one, was smaller and you can't go up onto the roof.

A larger fishing net contraption, where it seemed like the owner and his family could live aboard if they wanted to (not very comfortably).

I was reminded of being in Africa last year as little kids would stop whatever they were doing, wave and yell “Hello” as we passed by.  Super cute.


Passing by a small village on the river banks.

A couple of young local girls on a boat.

A pretty simple lifestyle.

We stopped for lunch at one of the larger villages, at a general store that was raised up on stilts.  I didn’t realize we would be stopping so I’d packed food for the trip, but it gave Derek and me a chance to try a “Krud” beer, which we had just been joking about 20 minutes earlier, having seen advertising for the drink on our travels in Cambodia, but never actually finding one for sale.


Everybody got out for our lunch break, so I thought I'd take a pic of the boat.

I loved the captain's helm.  The steering wheel pulled on a rope that went down both sides of the boat, and merely pulled the rudder one way or the other.

I had seen billboards and other ads for "Krud" beer, but never actually saw one for sale.  Just 20 minutes before we stopped for lunch, I talked about this with Derek from Australia, and sure enough, we both got to try one....and one it will be...it wasn't a very good tasting beer...it was crud.

Continuing our journey, Derek, Sam and I ventured up on the roof of the boat where it was quieter, being further away from the engine, plus the view was better.  As we got closer to the lake and the sun started to get lower in the sky, most of the other passengers joined us.  I also noticed that a lot more of the homes, schools and churches were floating on the river, rather than being on shore like earlier in the trip.


On the upper deck, looking back towards the stern.

Enjoying the view, and less engine noise.

The bow of the boat...I was tempted to do a "Titanic" off of the front, but didn't figure that the captain would appreciate it.



Passing by one of those big fish net contraptions.

There seemed to be more and more houses floating on the water than on the banks as we got closer to the Tonle Sap Lake.

A big church on the river.  I guess it's not a problem since Jesus can walk on water...

We took an interesting turn, away from the main river and down a narrow channel.  It seemed like an odd choice take such a big boat this way.  We couldn't quite make the turn so the boat slowly plowed into the weeds on the short then the captain used his trusty bamboo pole to get us pointed in the right direction.


Getting closer to the lake.

We finally made it to the massive Tonla Sap Lake, but still had close to an hour to go.


There it is!


It's a big lake, but shallow where we were and there were tons small bamboo sticks poking out of the water, presumably with fishing nets attached to them.

People live in very basic homes.

I was a bit slow getting this photograph, but that's a school.  In the middle of the row of classrooms on either side was the gymnasium, with bars all around it, presumably so balls don't end up in the river.  Volleyball seems more popular in Cambodia than football (soccer).

Reaching our destination around sunset, we were split up into groups to ride motorcycle tuk tuks for the 45-minute drive into town.  I was matched up with Cora and Denis from Germany.  It was dark by the time I was dropped off at my guesthouse, The Urban.  Our driver, whose “tourist name” was Simon, offered his services for visiting Angkor Wat.  I contacted him later via WhatsApp and arranged for him to pick me up at 5 am tomorrow to see sunrise, which was highly recommended online and by the hotel staff member Chang.  Oof, that’s early, and it was a long day…but when in Rome…

 

Cora, a backpacker from France, was very popular with some girls when we got off the boat.

Another dusty ride...heading to Siem Reap.

Beer Street!  Where I headed out for dinner.

Tomorrow...Angkor Wat!

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