Saturday, February 12, 2011

Humpin’ It Around Hampi

February 11th, 2011

Well unfortunately Manju’s guesthouse didn’t turn out to be too quiet after all. It wasn’t human commotion, but farm animals. A young dog barked away numerous times during the night interspersed with a couple of roosters who seemed to be a bit early for sunrise and one of them sounded half broken...add in a rambunctious swan and it does not make for easy sleeping especially considering I wasn’t feeling 100% with a very slight fever. In the morning I decided I must change accommodation. I felt a little bit bad for Manju as he seemed like a really nice guy and all of these animals actually lived next door at one of his competitor’s places but you have to look out for number one first. I packed up my small bag and headed back to one of the places I had seen yesterday which was 100 rupees more per night (300 versus 200) but had solid walls and the big bonus of an attached bathroom!

My new accommodation:

After settling in I crossed the river on the little ferry boat and began to explore the bazaar on foot. I headed down the main thoroughfare that was lined with covered stone walkways on either side. Reaching the end I began climbing the stairs built into the rock. The first few buildings had some impressively decorated pillars and in one sat a massive bull who had obviously had his belly and snout rubbed by many worshippers over the years. Next I encountered an old lady who acted as guardian over the monkey god that was colourfully painted. She didn’t look like she was “official” so I was fully prepared that she would be asking for some money from me for the bit of red paint that she smeared on my forehead. I obliged her with 10 rupees but she asked for 10 more which I ignored as I continued walking up some more stairs where I was greeted by a nice view down at the Achyutaraya temple at the foot of Matanga Hill. Achyutaraya was the third ruler of the Tulu Dynasty and he died in 1543.

The main thoroughfare:

Fancy pillars in a covered walkway:

Yes, the rocks are quite big:

I guess it's a bull:

Looking back towards Virupaksha Temple:

The monkey god Hanuman:

There was hardly another soul around as I walked aimlessly around the temple area but then a security guard carrying a bamboo stick appeared and I said hi to him (actually I said “Namaste”). He became a personal tour guide for me for the next 5-10 minutes. He pointed out various figures in the sculptures but after a while they just became names to me. He rapped his knuckle on a few sides of some of the thin rock pillars and a different tone was produced on one side versus the other. I thanked him for his time and began to walk down a long and wide thoroughfare which was at one time the Sule Bazaar, one of ancient Hampi’s principle centres of commerce. I checked out a few more buildings and an hour or two later I was templed out for the day.

Looking down at Achyutaraya Temple:

Inside the courtyard:


Awesome ray of sunlight coming through:

More of the temple:

A somewhat still covered walkway:

A watering pool for the temple:

Rocks galore:

After a mid-afternoon lunch by the river I moseyed back to the river crossing and headed back to my guesthouse...I didn’t want to overdo it on my first full day.

I love these round boats:

The always packed ferry boat:

Next to my hut a family seems to have been hired to whack some rocks out so they can put in a garden. Tough to see here but the kid looks about 11 or 12 years old..veritable child labour...at least it's Saturday and perhaps the kid still goes to school...

1 comment:

  1. That looks like the sunbeam in Indiana Jones, although he was in Egypt. Still, pretty cool!

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