January 7th, 2026
About 40 minutes away from Ouarzazate is the UNESCO World
Heritage Site Aït
Benhaddou. It is a ksar, which is the name for a
fortified village in North Africa. Located
on a small hill, as most ksars are, it has been around since the 11th
century. Thanks to its historic looks,
it has been the backdrop for many movies and films, including Lawrence of
Arabia, Gladiator, James Bond The Living Daylights, The Last Temptation of
Christ, Game of Thrones and the list goes on.
It’s recommended to either visit at sunrise or sunset, when
the golden light brings out the best in the ancient buildings. I opted for sunrise as it’s not too early to
get up with sunrise around 8:30 am at this time of year. I asked one of the campground’s staff the
night before when the gate would be open in the morning and he stated 7 am, but
it wasn’t until 7:45 that I was able to get going…which was going to cut it
close.
Racing towards Aït Benhaddou to catch sunrise...actually, I was doing the speed limit, there are way too many speed traps in this country.
My phone doesn't do it justice, but the snowy Atlas Mountains looked fabulous in the pre-sunrise light.
I drove into the modern part of Aït Benhaddou at 8:26, one
minute before the official sunrise time.
I had preselected a parking lot on Google Maps but just before I entered
town, there was an open area with a seller setting up his stall and it was situated
on a bit of a hill with a good view of the ksar.
I passed by and went down a bit of a hill into town and
realized that by the time I parked and walked to a viewpoint, I would miss
sunrise. I backtracked to the small hill
and was greeted by the vendor. He asked
if I’d be interested in looking at his goods, but to enjoy the sunrise
first. I appreciated that.
Taking in the sunrise.
Checking out the lovely mountains.
And it works even in the early morning sun!
A glass ball is used for the finer lines in the picture.
“Have you got a desert passport?” he asked me in a thick
accent. I was pretty sure that he said
passport. I replied no and he told me to
follow him down a small ramp into a tiny shop that was dug into the
hillside. Turns out he, his father and
his brother run this little enterprise.
Well a “desert passport” is long, rectangular piece of cloth
that is wrapped around your head known as a tagelmust
or litham in Morocco but there are many names for this type of headgear
around Africa and the Middle East. Abdou
gave me a lesson on how to put it on your head.
Me and my new friend Abdou.
Now it was time to walk up the ksar. I drove into town and easily found a parking spot on the quiet early morning main street.
The pedestrian bridge was constructed in 2011. It's good for tourists but they were also hoping to entice more locals to move back to the historic part of town as there are very few families left there.
Satisfied with my walk around the village, I hopped back in
Octi, after paying an old man in a high-vis vest 10 dirhams ($1.50 CAD) for “being
a guardian” of the vehicle, even though he wasn’t there when I arrived, and
drove off towards my next destination, the Fint Oasis.
I stopped for a quick photo at the Kasbah of Tifoultoute. I had a nice chat with a couple in their early 60s from England.
The vendor Abdou suggested that I visit the Fint Oasis, and
I had also read about it on a few traveller’s blogs. The route to the oasis took me about 10
minutes back the way that I arrived at Ouarzazate a couple of days earlier and
then veered off to the east. I could see
a grove of palm trees in a valley from the plateau I was on and as the road
started to descend, there was a local man in his 30s flagging me down. I assumed he was a hitchhiker so I stopped
and quickly cleared off some things from the passenger seat as hitchhiking is
quite common in Morocco. I rolled down
my window, and he asked if I wanted a guide.
I declined and continued on.
The road got bumpy and rough as the pavement disappeared, so
I slowed to a crawl. There were a couple
of kids and a couple of young adults hanging out by a sharp curve in the
road. One of the men signalled me to
lower my window. He was polite, said hi
and asked how I was doing and told me that I should park right there as the
river wasn’t good to cross with a vehicle.
I thought I was still a bit of a distance from the main part of the
oasis, and I figured he just wanted to be my guide so I became a bit defensive.
I think he could sense my hesitation, so he told me to
follow him, with no strings attached, and he would just show me the river. I followed him in the van about 50 meters and
then saw the river, which was probably passable, but I didn’t care to risk it. He suggested that we walk across and he could
show me around the village and how the locals live. I just wasn’t interested. I’m not crazy about being guided around where
the attraction in question is other humans.
I turned Octi around and headed back to the city.
Another attraction in Ouarzazate was the Cinema Museum
which was built in 2007 at the site of an old studio built by an Italian film company. In 2024, there was a fire at the museum, so they
lost a number of sets.
On my walk from the campground to the museum, I passed by this pack of sleeping street dogs. There are three others on the other side of the planter that you can't see...I think 9 in total.
It was a tired old museum and I seemed to be the only visitor
but I did run into one couple part way through my time there.
After about half an hour in the museum, it was time to cross
the street for the last stop of the day, the Kasbah Taourirt. It was built in the 17th century
and boasts around 300 rooms!
Just after I paid my entrance fee, an older local bespectacled man in a long robe approached me. He was the third person hoping to be my guide today. After some discussion about the cost and length of the tour, I decided to utilize his services, although I was skeptical at first how much of his explanations I would understand as not only was he speaking in French, but he also had a low, mumbling voice.
It was a long but good day, and I felt that I’d hit the main sites in the area. I am ready to move on from the Hollywood of Africa and tomorrow I’ll drive east to the Dadès Gorge.

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