February 2nd, 2025
Catching the high-speed train from Luang Prabang, I arrived
in Vang Vieng around 1
pm. My ticket included a truck taxi into
town which dropped me off at my accommodation, the Win Hotel, a nice place. After settling in, I went for a walk around
the town to get the lay of the land.
Two high speed locomotives joined together in the middle of a long train.
Vang Vieng had a reputation for being a crazy backpacker
party town where you could go “tipsy tubing” down the river, stopping at
numerous bars along the way. And the
bars, for some reason, used to play rerun episodes of “Friends” constantly (I
really don’t care for that show). There
were a few deaths of tubers over the years, most likely from too much imbibing
mixed with flowing water, and the town has tried to change its look. Even though the tipsy tubing is still an
option, it’s supposedly not as crazy as it used to be 10-15 years ago.
However, recently Vang Vieng was in the news for the wrong
reason again, with 6 backpackers losing their lives from drinking free vodka
shots in a hostel that turned out to contain methanol. Even trace amounts of methanol can be deadly. This is why I thought it was crazy that on
the Mekong
River cruise I went on, that we stopped at “Whiskey Village” and tried some
of their distilled spirits (I violated the one thing I wasn’t supposed to do in
Laos!).
As the sun started to get lower in the sky, I headed to the tallest building in Vang Vieng, called "The Elephant Hotel" or "Elevate 9". The rooftop was the best place in town to catch sunset plus the hot air balloons and the paramotor trikes flying around. I went there on 2 out of 3 of my nights in town.
There were more than a dozen paramotor trikes buzzing around
(I’ve never seen so many in the sky at once).
Add to that, there were hot air balloons taking off from the south side
of the town and flying to the north, with some of them passing nearby where I
was. There were some other hot air
balloons in the distance, to the west, that were higher than any of the ones
flying over town. I clued in that this
was the “Above Laos” company that I had booked a flight with, in a few days
time…I got excited about this upcoming adventure.
The next day, I rented a scooter and headed to the valley west
of town, where the Above Laos balloons were flying. The main tourist attractions in Vang Vieng
(apart from the partying) are viewpoints, caves for spelunking, hot air balloon
& paramotor trike rides, and swimming in the five “blue lagoons”, swimming holes
with rope swings and/or ziplines. The
majority of these were located in the
valley that I was checking out.
The most famous viewpoint is called Nam Xay, so I decided to
start my day with it. The hike up takes
only about 25-30 minutes but it’s steep and ascends about 370 meters. As it seemed to be the case with all
viewpoints, caves and lagoons in the area, the price of admission was 20,000
dong ($1.50). It was well worth the
price of admission.
Back on my rented scooter, I headed further west and within
a few clicks, I saw a sign for a cave and another viewpoint. I was only interested in the cave as my legs,
specifically my knees, had enough from the Nam Xay viewpoint. I paid my obligatory 20,000 dong and climbed
up about 50 meters to this “cave”.
Really, it turned out to be a hole in the wall. Well, you win some, you lose some. Too bad I didn’t have the energy to go up to
the top of this viewpoint though, as there is a small plane at the top…even
more impressive than two motorcycles for a photograph.
My next, and last stop for the afternoon, was “Blue Lagoon 3”. I had read online that this was one of the best ones of the five lagoons in the area, and it was quite good. It had a big rectangular, somewhat natural pool, probably 50 meters by 25. The depth was only about 8-10 feet, and there were even some fish swimming around, although I didn’t see them until after I got out of the water.
A seemingly cobbled together platform complete with a short zipline
and rope swing provided a lot of entertainment, both for the participants and
the spectators. There were a few
impressive somersaults or backflips, but conversely, there were some hilarious
shenanigans. This one Japanese woman,
covered from head to toe in black clothing (common for Japanese people when
they go swimming) and wearing a lifejacket, flew out on the rope swing. She didn’t let go while screaming as loud as
she could. As she swung back towards the
tower, everyone was yelling, in multiple languages, to let go…but she
didn’t. Thankfully she didn’t hit the
tower, but proceeded to swing back and forth 3-4 times, shrieking the whole
time…she just didn’t want to let go.
When her pendulum-like swinging finally slowed down, she dropped into
the water. She was definitely a crowd
favourite!
Just 120 meters from the lagoon was the Phaboun Cave. From the signage by the lagoon, it looked
intriguing as it was 150 meters deep and had a pool of water that you could
swim in near the end of it. I decided to
check it out.
The entrance was the toughest part of the spelunking. There was a French couple just ahead of me, who were also equipped with headlights, but then a Japanese couple came in after me and only one of them had a phone, which really doesn’t project much light. However, our impromptu group made our way through the cave and eventually found the pool of water, which was a bit of a let down as there wasn’t much water there. It definitely wasn’t inviting for a swim which a sign outside claimed it to be.
Three other guys caught up to us and even though I suggested
that we try turning off our lights to experience the darkness, but no one
seemed to be game. So I let them get
ahead of me on the way out, and I waited in this big chamber until their lights
disappeared and soaked in the utter blackness.
Yet again, I was transported to the thought of the tribulation that the
young Thai soccer team endured when they were caught in a cave for over two
weeks back in 2018. These boys ranged in
age from 11 to 16 with their coach only 25 years old. It must have been terrifying!
On my ride back to Vang Vieng, I took a different road, on
the south side of the valley. By chance,
I passed by a field where four hot air balloons were laid out, about to inflate
and take to the sky. They were from the
company Above Laos, and I was going to be flying with them tomorrow morning.