Taking a tuk tuk around mid morning, it was a 20-minute drive
out of the city to Choeung Ek,
the best known of the over 300 Killing Fields used by the Khmer Rouge. Almost 9000 bodies were exhumed from this
site in 1980, after the regime fell the prior year. Many of the dead were former political
prisoners who the Khmer Rouge kept in Prison S-21 (where I was yesterday) and
in other Cambodian detention centers. I
wasn’t really sure what to expect…
Passing through the gate, I paid my entrance fee and
received an audio guide. Over the next
two and half hours, I would wander around the grounds, hear some terrifying
stories, and learn a lot about what transpired here.
The entrance to Choeung Ek Genocidal Center.
Typically, prisoners were transported from Phnom Penh to the
site in trucks in the cover of darkness at night. They generally didn’t stay there more than a
day before their fate was sealed but more often, they were killed within hours
of arriving at Choeung Ek, even though they were unaware of what was about to
happen. Often, they had been told that
they were just being relocated to a different detention center, not realizing
that their “confession” at Prison-S21 or a similar facility, had signed their
death warrant.
The main stupa in the middle, where the audio tour will finish.
There had been some buildings constructed for housing some
prisoners, supplies and one was for toxic chemicals such as lime. The lime was either used to finish off a victim
who was still alive in a mass grave before it was covered up, or to mitigate
the terrible stench or rotting bodies.
After the liberation of the area in 1979, locals came in and dismantled
the buildings, partly in anger of what had transpired there, but also to
salvage useful and valuable material such as wood and corrugated steel roofing.
One of the information boards standing where a building would have been located.
Not sure of the name of this tree, but if you zoom in, it has a spiderweb of branches.
The main stupa.
Where some of the mass graves had been unearthed, a small
fence and roof was erected around it.
Others were merely depressions in ground, like a bomb crater. Even though most of the bones and cloths were
removed, even to this day some evidence of the horror works its way to the
surface of the ground, especially after heavy rains.
A mass burial site that contained the bodies of 450 victims.
Other mass burial sites, which formed bomb-like depressions once the bones had been removed.
In one section, the furthest from the entrance, some pink
lilies were floating on a pond with the occasional fish disturbing the
surface. The odd bench lined a path that
followed the edge of the water. It was a
great spot to sit, listen to stories of survivors on the audio guide, and
reflect.
A peaceful spot of a place where horrific things occurred.
A walking path around the little lake.
The was a mass grave of 166 headless bodies. They would have been Khmer Rouge members or guards who did something wrong or perhaps didn't carry out orders. As additional punishment, the location of their heads is unknown.
These are pieces of clothes that surfaced over the years after 1980, usually during the rainy season. They also included strips of cloth that would have been used as blindfolds.
This was one of the most gut wrenching things to see: The Killing Tree. To the right of this try was a mass grave filled with bodies of women and children. This tree was used to bash babies and toddlers' heads against it to kill them. When the first liberators arrived, it was smeared with blood and bits of brain.
A former Chinese grave from pre-1975, before the genocide.
Bone fragments that surfaced over time after the main exhumation in 1980. In the bottom left corner, those are teeth.
This is known as the "Magic Tree". Not sure how magic it was. There were loud speakers strung up in the branches which blared patriotic, communist music, but the main purpose was drown out the screams of those being killed from other prisoners and nearby inhabitants. The audio guide played an excerpt of it, and it was a woman's shrill voice singing in Khmer, to some high pitched, traditional string instruments and it was super haunting, and quite frankly terrible to listen to even if you weren't about to meet your fate.
More bone fragments that have surfaced over time.
Originally the bones of the victims were housed in wooden buildings, but the Cambodian government decided to build this stupa in the center of the grounds to house the skulls and larger bones properly, as a memorial.
The skulls were examined and marked with small coloured stickers, some to differentiate male from female ones, others to designate how the person had been killed, either by iron tools, bamboo sticks, crowbars etc.
It's crazy to think of how each one of these skulls was a person who had dreams, hopes, ambitions...all to be wiped away from a crazy regime that wanted everyone to be farmers...
After completing the audio guide, I wandered over to a small
museum in one corner of the grounds. There
was a 15-minute-documentary of poor production quality, from the early 80s, which
showed a bit of footage of the Killing Field when it was first discovered, but
primarily the footage was of interviews of the first people to enter the area
after the Khmer Rouge fled. It had some
very haunting music at the end of the film.
Walking towards the small museum in the corner of the center.
This was the uniform of the Khmer Rouge.
Some killing instruments and shackles that were found.
This sign was on the door to enter the small movie theatre to watch a short documentary. It's an interesting collection of things not to bring: a hat, cigarette, camera...oh and a gun or a hand grenade!
Coming out of the museum, looking back at the stupa.
My tuk tuk driver, Rottha, who brought me out from the city, and waited to take me back.
Looking back towards the main part of Phnom Penh.
What's a fancy looking shopping mall doing way out here?
This guy's trailer was so big that I couldn't capture all of it...plus I didn't realize that he had two guys riding with him until after I took the photo.
I asked Rottha what this fancy building was. Through Google translate he messaged "The Ministry of Interior" and the next translation was "Gripped with Iron Fist"...which I got a chuckle out of.
I was shocked at the amount of clothes these ladies were wearing...hoodies, and even gloves for the driver!
A busy and lively park near my hotel. This is the nicer side of Cambodia to see.
Seems like the place could do with some more grass though...
On my way to dinner, I saw these guys were shooting some low budget film. The guy on the left has a fake machine gun, the guy on the right, a fake moustache...which one is more dangerous?!?
Okay, Cambodian genocide two-day tour complete.Next stop, the island of Koh Rong…time to
relax and think happy thoughts...
I flew from Con Dao to Ho Chi Minh City and after a 5-hour
layover, headed to Phnom Penh.
Taking off from Con Dao.
Hello Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC)...this is the last day that I see you on this trip.
The international terminal in HCMC. It did have a good view for watching planes takeoff and land.
And also for watching hockey! Two of my high school buddies were at this game in Seattle against Vancouver. I was a bit shocked that the beer was more than twice the price at the domestic terminal, a 10 minute walk away.
It may be hard to tell in this pic unless you zoom in, but I got a kick out of this traveller. She has a nice skirt and blouse on, fancy sunglasses, but then the travel pillow around her neck and to top it all off, a single curler in her hair. Maybe it's the fashion, but to me it just looks like she left in a hurry from her house in the morning...
You don't see this often in the western world, an airport supervisor on a bicycle.
Well hello Cambodia!
After checking into my hotel, I went for a wander around the
neighborhood to get the lay of the land.
Just four blocks away was the Mekong River, the 12th
longest river in the world and 3rd longest in Asia at over 4900
kilometres in length. Along the promenade
by the river, there were a few vendors of snacks and drinks, joggers, walkers
and strangely a lot of fortune tellers.
I didn’t bother…
The Mekong River in Phnom Penh.
There were a lot of fortune tellers along the promenade, whether it was palm reading or looking at cards (they weren't Tarot cards, just regular ones).
Some ferries were taking commutes across the river.
Some fancy buildings in Phnom Penh.
The next morning, I took a tuktuk to one of the most visited
sites (I don’t want to say attractions) by foreigners in the capital of Cambodia:
Tuol Sleng
Genocide Museum, better known as Prison S-21. Tuol Sleng means “hill of the poisonous trees”,
perhaps an appropriate name. From
1976-1979, approximately 20,000 people, mostly Cambodians, passed through the
establishment to be incarcerated and tortured until they confessed to crimes, often
false ones, that allowed the Khmer Rouge to have justification to send them off
to be executed in the Killing
Fields.
Let’s back up a bit, although I don’t plan on telling you the
whole story behind the genocide that occurred in Cambodia in the late 70s, but
here’s Dave’s take on it. I recall as a young
kid hearing about the Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot, but it really didn’t mean too
much to me at that time.
Poor Cambodia suffered massive bombing by the US during the
Vietnam War since Cambodia allowed the North Vietnamese to have some of the Ho Chi Minh Trail,
which brought weapons and supplies from the north to the south, pass through Cambodia.
Before that, the king, King Sihanouk, was
ousted in a coup by the Prime
Minister General Lon Nol in 1970, while the king was in Beijing. The new regime was anti-communist and it
demanded that any Vietnamese communists leave the country. The king urged his followers to support him,
and a civil war ensued.
Meanwhile, a man named Saloth Sar, who was born into a
wealthy family, was educated in some of Cambodia’s wealthiest schools. He went to Paris to study radio electronics,
and it was here that he joined the French Communist Party. When he returned to Cambodia, he was involved
with the Khmer Viet Minh organisation and then started building a following,
and eventually an army primarily consisting of young, uneducated men, which was
called the Khmer Rouge. Khmer is an ethic group in Cambodia (they speak
Khmer too) and the Rouge comes from the red for communism. So it was kind of ironic that Saloth came
from a wealthy background as communists denounce all forms of wealth. Saloth now become known as Pol Pot (possible a pseudonym
from “Political Potential”). He’s the main
man behind the genocide that would occur in Cambodia.
The main bastard behind it all...Pol Pot. That was not his real name, that was Saloth Sar. Pol Pot was a political name that some surmise meant "Political Potential".
In April 1975, the Khmer Rouge seized control of the
country. Pol Pot envisioned an agrarian
society, meaning everyone was to be a farmer and work on the land. The use of modern machinery and even animals
like oxen was forbidden. Only human toil
would suffice. Within three days of
entering Phnom Penh, almost every inhabitant was on the march out of the city,
or face death. Schools, hospitals,
factories…everything was shut down. How
insane! “Hey everybody, let’s go back to
the stone age.”
Prison S-21 was just one 150-200 detention centres set up by
the Khmer Rouge. It used to be a school
and had four classroom blocks, all of which were turned into torture rooms or
prison cells. Anyone who was a dissident,
non-communist, doctor, engineer, lawyer, machinist, mechanic… you name it, they
were brought here. Children of parents
who were brought to S-21 had to come along as well. Crazy stuff.
Building A of Prison S-21.
Some of the leftover barbed wire on a perimeter fence.
These are the graves of the last 14 victims of prison, who were hastily killed as the Vietnamese Army were approaching.
Prisoners were shackled to an iron bed like this for interrogation.
This was the gruesome scene that the liberators found in 14 different rooms.
These are the 7 adult survivors of the prison. I didn't know until later that the third guy from the right was actually at the prison and I would get to briefly meet him.
This wooden structure was originally set up as a playground for kids at the school. During the prison time, it was a torture device. Captives were strung up by their wrists, which were tied behind their back. Once they passed out, they were lowered and their heads were dunked in the big pots which were filled with human waste until they came to. How terrible.
The place was run by a man named Kang Kek Lew, better
known as Comrade Duch. He was really the
bastard of all bastards. In order to “justify”
an execution of an inmate, they required a confession. Now someone like a doctor wouldn’t have done
anything wrong, but they would be tortured until they came up with some
plausible reason why they were guilty.
If the confession was too outrageous, Comrade Duch would deny it and the
torture would continue.
And this was the bastard who did the dirty work, Comrade Duch, he was responsible for the interrogation and torture of thousands of individuals, and was convicted for the execution of at least 12,272 individuals, including women and children, but up to 14,000 in total could have died under his oversight.
This was Khmer Rouge's plan. To become an agrarian (farming) society, everyone in the cities had to move out to the country.
Some pictures of the hard labour required to produce food. The Khmer Rouge didn't allow the use of modern machinery or even oxen to plow fields. Dumb asses...
This is a picture of the 5 children who survived the prison (for a total of 12 people out of 20,000 who passes through the gates). Unbeknownst to me, two of them were at the prison this day, selling their book.
Cell block B, where prisoners were incarcerated in tiny cells.
A statue of a figure falling over with their hands in prayer.
As genocidal regimes often tend to do, they documented
everything. Photographs and records were
kept of each person who passed through this horrific place. As the informative audio guide I was listening
to stated: “Record keeping helped the ordinary guard feel removed from the terrible
crimes that were being committed…they were simply doing their job.”
These were the young men who worked at the prison. They were from the countryside and most of them had very limited education, in fact, most of them couldn't read or write.
These were the women who worked at the prison, primarily doing housekeeping type chores but there were a few who were involved with the interrogation of prisoners.
Some of the victims of the prison...tough photos to look at.
These guys were some of the handful of foreigners who were caught up in the fray of the Khmer Rouge. Some of them were simply sailing and ended up in the wrong waters... The guy in the bottom left is Kerry Hamill from Australia. He was sailing with his friend and was apprehended off of the coast of Cambodia with the co-owner of the boat Canadian sailor, Stuart Glass and he was shot while being apprehended and died at sea. They ended up in Prison S-21 and later killed. While being interrogated, he fictious confession stated that one of his commanding officers was Colonel Sanders (KFC), his family's home phone number as his CIA operative number, and also reported to Major S. Star, a tribute to his mother who was name Esther.
I just thought that this young man's eyes looked so defiant.
And this guy was a deer in headlights.
He just looks pissed off that he was caught.
She looks somewhat defiant, or at least not broken.
Look at how young this boy is...to have chains around his neck.
And how old is this poor dude?!?
Iron shackles used in larger rooms with up to 60 people lying on the floor.
Where they would cram 60 prisoners.
One of the four cell blocks still had the barbed wire installed. It was mainly to prevent prisoners from committing suicide after one guy did just that, jumping from the third floor.
On the first floor of Cell Block B, they created tiny cells with brick.
That's probably 4 feet by 8 feet.
That's an ammo box on the floor. The prisoners had to relive themselves in it and be very careful about it. If they spilled it, they were made to lick it up.
These markings were made by a guard who was counting something. You can see that he didn't know how to count apart from single lines.
On the second and third floors, the cells were made of wood.
There were multiple signs to not write any graffiti, but you can't argue with this message.
A painting by Bou Meng, one of the 7 adult survivors out of thousands, who was at the prison that day.
Another by Bou, showing the torture method of from the wooden frame that used to be for a playground for the school that was once there.
Various implements used for torture.
This is for waterboarding a prisoner...a simulated type of drowning, which sometimes left the victim dead.
In the last building, there were some of the remains of the victims of Prison S-21.
It might be hard to see unless you zoom in, but this is a photograph of hundreds of bones found in the Killing Fields, about 20 minutes outside of Phnom Penh, where prisioners would be take to be executed.
This shows one of the common methods of execution, a blow to the head with a hammer, a hoe or some other blunt instrument. It was cheaper than using bullets.
A small shrine in the last room of the last building.
Coming out of the last building, I saw this display, where two survivors hang out and sell their book.
After a gut-wrenching couple of hours wandering around the grounds
and through the buildings, learning a lot from the audio guide, I was blown
away by the fact that 2 of the 5 child survivors and 1 of the 7 adult survivors
(remember, there were only 12 survivors out of about 20,000) were actually
present that day at the prison. The first
two, the child survivors, had a small stand outside of the last building, Cell Block
D. They looked to be around my age, if
not younger, and they were selling a book.
I said hello and passed by before I really clued in who they were. I sat down on a nearby bench in the shade to listen
to the last few excerpts of the audio guide and it was interesting to see other
visitors come up and interact with them.
A few bought their book, a few posed for photographs, and one woman
walked away with tears in her eyes. Can’t
blame her.
The guy on the right is one of the children survivors.
A memorial to the victims. The black tablets contain the names of many of those who lost their lives.
I headed towards the exit, and then saw that there was one
of the adult survivors, Bou Meng, now an 83 or 84-year-old, sitting under a
shelter with some books in front of him and a couple of women helping him
out. I watched as a couple of people
bought his book and had their photo with him and I thought that I couldn’t pass
up this opportunity. Bou is an artist who
created a number of paintings about the atrocities that occurred here. He would have been in his mid-forties when he
was imprisoned and tortured, so unlike the child survivors, he definitely
remembered what transpired, and the terrible hardship he endured.
Behind the post is Boh Meng, one of the 7 adult survivors.
I bought his book to learn about his ordeal.
I bought his book and had a photo taken with him. Unfortunately, he doesn’t speak English. I asked one of the caretakers how often he is
present at the prison these days, but her English wasn’t too good, but she did
convey that it’s not that often anymore due to his age. Wow.
What a survival story.
Whew…that was heavy.
But something we all need to learn about, as genocides keep recurring in
our societies. Is there a way to stop
that in the future? I’m not so sure…
My next stop was Wat Phnom (wat meaning “temple”). It’s a major pagoda in the city and symbolized
the name of Phnom Penh. Standing at 46 meters
on top of a small hill surrounded by a road, it was a pretty site…although I
have to admit that I spent all of 3-4 minutes there. I snapped some photos, and it was time to
move on.
The entrance to Wat Phnom (wat means "temple").
Inside this building was the standard golden Buddha statue and other intricate ornaments. I've seen so many in Thailand that I just poked my head through the door and continued on.
The main stupa.
This big clock kinda worked...the second hand and minute hand moved, but the second hand seemed to have a tough time going up hill (when it passed 6), and it definitely wasn't accurate.
The clock trying to keep time...
My last haircut was over a month and a half ago in Thailand
so I walked to a barber, found some lunch and then wandered back to my hotel
while passing by the Royal Palace of
Cambodia. Looking at online reviews
and pictures, I had already decided that I would just walk by place, and not
bother paying the entrance fee to look at the outside of some fancy buildings up
closer…it had been a tiring day.
Walking back to my hotel...some kind of market building.
Another temple.
Good advice! At least the first one...
This was some park that you couldn't enter, the gates were locked. Looked like it needed some mowing too.
Part of the Royal Palace, that I didn't bother going in to check out. You could only see the buildings from the outside if you paid your $10 USD to enter, so I didn't bother.
Lots and lots of pigeons...which some local kids were enjoying feeding.
I actually took the photo not because of the temple in the background, but the "motorcycle tuk tuk" with a trailer that can pull 3-4 people.
The view from the rooftop of the neighbouring hotel to mine, which was owned by the same company.
That evening, I wandered out to a craft beer place and had some “okay” chicken wings…but the beer was good!
Some of the bigger, modern buildings of Phnom Penh.
Some nightlife in a park near my hotel. Volleyball and badminton are popular.
An abandoned police truck on the side of the road as I walked to find dinner.
I found a craft beer spot creatively called: Craft!
Time to recharge for tomorrow’s part two of Cambodia’s genocide
story:The Killing Fields.
