Sunday, January 21, 2024

Scuba Diving at Mnemba Island

January 17th, 2024 

After my one night’s stay in Pongwe, I ventured further up island to a small beach town called Matemwe.  My accommodation, Mohammed Bungalows and Restaurant, was located right on the beach but it was definitely a step down facilities wise compared to last night’s place.  I had a single room, but a shared bathroom which was down some steep steps and on the other side of the property.  However, the beach made up for this.  The sand was super fine and almost white.  There was a reef about 500 meters out from the shore which quelled any waves so the water was always calm.


The chill road heading up island:



Mohammed's place:

My room is on the top left:

The view from outside my room:

The lovely beach:

When I was in Stone Town and I visited Prison Island, this French couple I had met showed me their pictures from a snorkeling trip to Mnemba Island, which is a few kilometers offshore of Zanzibar Island, and it looked fabulous.  In fact, that was the reason that caused me to come to Matemwe.  After talking with Mohammed and a Polish woman name Monika, I found out that there was good scuba diving around the island too.  Well, I’d rather do that than snorkeling as it’s been a few years since my last dive, and you can see a lot more when you can stay under the water for a while.

 

I hung out chatting with Monika for an hour or so.  Turns out that there are a lot of Polish tourists and business owners in this area.  She had built a house but didn’t put a kitchen in it as she didn’t want to deal with rats…lovely.  So she was frequent diner at Mohammed’s as she liked his food.

 

The dive centre couldn’t have been more conveniently located, it was about 40 meters away, two doors down on the beach.  It was called Kibwana’s, named after the owner who was probably around 30 years old with some small dreadlocks.  He had a good energy about him, so I signed up for a couple of dives for the following day.


Kibwana's Dive Centre:



Back at the dive centre at 8:30 am, a divemaster named Tim sorted me out with a shorty wetsuit and some fins.  As I hung out on the front deck, I met a couple of Spanish guys, Victor and Pedro, who were just finishing up their divemaster training, and they were super friendly.  Next, I met a married couple in their mid to late 30s who had been married since 2010.  Luke was from Australia, but he had moved to Germany to be with Ines.  They were on day 3 of 4 of diving, doing 2 dives a day.  They had just done their open water certification a year ago.  The final divers in our group, whose names I sadly never got, were a Swedish couple who had no experience whatsoever.

 

On the boat ride out to the island, Pedro gave the Swedish couple a brief overview on hooking up a BCD (Buoyancy Compensation Device – a vest you wear that you can inflate/deflate with air) to an air tank.  I could see the woman slowly getting a little more concerned as to what she had gotten herself into.  Meanwhile, the other divemasters prepared the gear for the rest of us.  I was going to be diving with Ines and Luke with Tim as the lead divemaster.  Since I hadn’t gone diving in a couple of years (an awesome dive with hammerhead sharks in the Galapagos Islands), Tim assigned Victor to be my buddy and to stay close to me…sounds good.  Tim gave a briefing about the dive, that we would work our way down a sloped wall to our deepest point of the dive, turn around, and work our way back towards the boat along a slightly different route.  He stated that we should relax, enjoy and take it “Pole, pole” (pol-Ay), which means “slow” in Swahili.  I also liked that idea.  As a non-regular diver, if you go fast, you will breathe faster and likely more irregularly which can then cause a bit of a panicky feeling.


The boat ride to the dive site:


Shortly after rolling backwards off the boat into the water, Victor found out that he had a problem with his BCD that would need a repair.  Tim told him to head back to the boat and we would continue without him.  Oh great…  I was the last to join up with our group.  “Okay, let’s go down.”  Wait a sec, I just got here, let me catch my breath and slow my heartrate down.  It’s not like it was a big swim, but the combination of a bit of exercise, the constraint of the BCD around my chest, and a bit of trepidation, I really wanted a minute or two to chill, but it looks like I’ve got to go.  I deflated my BCD and wasn’t sinking in the water.  They had given me 4 kilograms of weight, but that didn’t seem to be enough.  We headed back towards the boat and Tim slapped a couple of 1 kg weights in each side of my BCD.  This definitely helped me to descend.

 

Down about 25 feet, we started to work our way down the wall.  I was still trying to regulate my breathing and focus on relaxing, but I had forgotten how it takes some time to get used to breathing through a regulator.  Come on Dave, you’ve done 60+ dives…get it together.

 

Ten minutes into the dive, with me at the back of our group of four, another diver came up from behind and was trying to signal something to me.  It took me a few seconds to clue in that it was Victor.  He must have changed BCDs and caught up with us.  Okay, cool.


Initially we saw a variety of tropical fish including some trumpetfish, which are long and skinny.  Not sure why they aren’t called flute or recorder fish, they don’t really look like a trumpet.  We then had a real treat of finding an octopus hiding in his den.  Most of his skin was white and I only really saw a tentacle or two, and briefly an eye.  They are such cool animals.  If you haven’t seen the documentary “My Octopus Teacher”, I highly recommend it.


A Moorish Idol - I saw these snorkeling in Kenya too:


A skunk clownfish, who likes to hide in anemones.


A trumpetfish (unfortunately I didn't have an underwater camera, so all the fish pics are stock ones I found on the Internet).

After reaching 60 feet in depth, the deepest point of the dive, we slowly turned around and started our way back up.  For some reason I started to have some pain in my right ear and jaw.  This is a bit odd as usually it happens on your way down, when you can’t equalize your ears, but we were on our way up.  Eventually it subsided, but it did cause me to just wish that the dive was over, yet we still had about a 1/3 of our oxygen left.  I could have signalled to Victor that I wanted to go up, but I wanted to see if I could get through it mentally.


The ledge took us back up to about 20 feet and then we did our 3-minute safety stop just above the ocean floor (this is to release any nitrogen that has built up in your body).  Back on the surface, I have to admit that it was nice to breathe fresh air.  At that point I questioned whether I would do the second dive.  If you’re not having fun, why continue doing it.  Let’s wait and see.

 

Back in the boat, my jaw definitely felt strange, like it was hyperextended or slightly dislocated.  I was able to grind my lower molars against the uppers in a way that I can’t normally do.  Weird.  I definitely should have had a full wetsuit too as I was shivering, even in the partial sunlight were receiving.

 

We ate some fruit slices and drank water as we waited for the Swedes to return.  They had been paired off with a divemaster each, with Pedro going with the guy and Kibwana with the trepidatious woman.  They weren’t doing a full dive, just practicing submerging to 10-15 feet and returning to the surface.  They may have been learning some other basic skills too.  Returning to the boat, the Swedish woman shed a few tears.  I felt sorry for her.

 

The boat headed over to another dive spot (there 15 of them in a ring around Mnemba Island).  Tim said “Let’s not waste time, why not do the second dive and then we are done for the day.”  What happened to “pole pole”?  I decided I was going to give it another go, and I was glad that I did.


On the second dive I felt much more comfortable and relaxed.  Oh yeah, this is what diving can be like.  We saw some fish that I’ve never seen before like a couple of pairs of devil firefish and a “walking” frogfish (it uses some of its fins to walk along the ocean floor).  Only Victor and I saw the frogfish which I guess is rare to see as he was excited to have spotted it, which was not easy to do as it was quite well camouflaged against the seabed. 


A frogfish:


The devil firefish are crazy looking too, similar to a lionfish (they may be related).  They were black and white striped and it was pretty obvious that it was a male and female pair as they were slightly different in size and shape.  When their eyes were not looking up or down, or forward or backwards, they actually blended in with the stripes of their body…super cool.



I liked these guys too, a type of triggerfish.  They use the fins on the top and bottom of their body to propel themselves, not ones on the side like most fish.

In a barren area, near the end of the dive, there were a bunch of spotted garden eels sticking about 6-8 inches out of the sand, all looking in the same direction.  I really liked these guys but if you get too close, they just disappear into their hole.


They're like sentries on watch duty.


We saw a few of these, tough to spot, finless soles, that undulate their bodies along the ocean floor.


We seemed to finish our dive a bit early, as I, being the “air slut” of the group, still had oxygen to spare.  That was fine though, I think I had had my fill.  Once again, we were back on the boat before the Swedish couple returned with their instructors and it was nice to see that the woman smiling and happy.


Returning to shore, the tide was now out enough that the dive boat couldn’t make it through the reef.  Our boat went to an area north of Matemwe Beach where we hopped into a smaller boat that took us through an opening in the reef.  We transferred to yet another boat which was of similar size, but it had a covering to protect us from the sun for the twenty-minute ride back.  A few of us were joking that we were playing musical boats.


Kibwana is on the right. (I should have been wearing my shades!)


It was a fun group to dive with and Ines and Luke came to Mohammed’s for lunch with me.  Luke had a GoPro on the dive and I’m kicking myself for not grabbing my laptop and taking a copy of his videos…oh well, I’ll have to rely on my memories.  Even though the first dive was a bit challenging for me, I’m glad I went.


I had a nap and then went to the restaurant next door for a chill late afternoon and evening…I was wiped out.


Hard to tell, but I watched some locals, and one mzungu, play football on the beach as I enjoyed a beer from a chaise lounge.


Some local girls having fun:

Fancy dinnertime:

My dinnertime entertainment was watching a match from the African Cup of Nations.  Tanzania was playing so I kept a few waiters updated on the game...which was not good...they lost.


That night I felt a fever coming on and did not sleep well.  Luckily I was good enough to take a boda boda to my next destination, Nungwi, at the north end of the island.


This was fun, the motorcycle taxi used the beach instead of a crappy road to get to the highway.

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