Saturday, December 23, 2023

Hell’s Gate National Park

December 18th, 2023 

I ordered an Uber from the hostel to the bus park downtown in Nairobi.  A helpful guy led me from the bus area to where the matatus were (which is what I needed) to go to Naivasha, a small city about 2 hours north of Nairobi.  I purchased my ticket for 300 shillings ($3) and being only the second person to get in the van, I sussed out my best seating option.  The other passenger was an older man in the front seat.  This van was definitely bigger than the standard ones in Uganda with a higher roof, not high enough to stand upright in but similar to the Toyota campervan I had in New Zealand five years ago.  Kenyans must have more padding in their butts as I found all of the seats pretty devoid of any cushioning.  The layout was 2 x 2 with an aisle down the middle.  They were very narrow seats but then I clued in that the back row was still only four seats, but there was no aisle…so that’s where I sat.

 

You never know when the matatu is going to leave, as they wait until it is full.  Three people hopped in, and the woman immediately sat beside me.  Turns out that Judy was the mother of the teenage girl, and aunt of the 21-year-old guy.  Judy didn’t look that old herself, maybe early 30s but East Africans tend to age well.  She was friendly and nice to chat with.  Finally, about half an hour later, the van was full and we set off…I already had a sore butt and we had only just left!


In the matatu:


The busy streets of Nairobi:


The scenery en route:

My first view of Lake Naivasha:


Arriving in Naivasha, I thought I’d get a boda boda but the guy wanted a ridiculous price, so I opted for an Uber.  I chatted with the driver and in passing I mentioned that I had seen the Big Five animals, but I was looking forward to seeing a zebra, which I knew was almost a certainty in this area.  Well ask and ye shall receive.  The Uber driver saw one and pulled into a dirt road across the highway and boom, there was my first and second zebra in the wild.  Thanks dude!


The bus park in Naivasha:


My first zebra in the wild!

The place I was staying at was called El Sueno and on the first night, I was the only guest.  I went from a hostel where I was sharing a room with 3 other guys to having a veritable mansion to myself.  The place was a bit remote, about 4 km out of town but for two nights, it will be fine.  Veronica checked me in, showed me the room and would be my chef as well for the next couple of breakfasts and dinners.


El Sueno Guesthouse:






The next morning, I grabbed another Uber (I’ve never Uber-ed so much in my life) to go to my main reason for coming to the area, Hell’s Gate National Park.  That morning I struggled again with the Kenyan government’s website to buy my ticket.  Actually, it was more of a problem with my bank.  I’ve had no problems for a month and a half in Africa and now, CIBC wanted me to enter a security code which could only be texted or called to my Canadian phone number…which is in Canada.  I was about to head into town to a Kenyan bank to make a payment but thankfully Terry, my assistant paragliding instructor back in Canada, happened to be up and could forward me the security code from there.

 

Veronica hopped in the Uber with me for a ride part way towards her home.  Arriving at the national park, the Uber driver asked me how I wanted to pay…cash or Mpesa (Mpesa is a way to pay with your phone in Kenya which has become ubiquitous here after Covid).  I was a but dumbstruck.  “Mmm, by the Uber app?”  That’s one of the points of using Uber is that you don’t have to worry about payment, it just goes on your credit card.  The driver said that the amount Uber set was too low.  I showed him on my phone that I was giving him a tip and a 5-star rating.  He didn’t seem super happy with this, but I bid him good-bye and got out of the vehicle.  Sorry dude, if you didn’t like the price, why did you accept my ride request.


I walked up to the gate to the park and was met by a guide.  I asked about renting a bike and he told me that it was 800 shillings.  A bike was brought up from a place by the main road, about 1½ km away, that I had just passed in the Uber.  I could only pay by Mpesa, but then the guide paid for me, and I paid him cash.  He asked if I wanted a guide.  I asked for what exactly.  The bike ride was about 7 kms but then when you got near the canyon, you needed to have a local guide.  He claimed that it was going to cost me more than the 4000 shillings ($35) that he was going to charge me.  Unfortunately, the best hiking part, a narrow gorge was closed due to worries about flash floods since we were still in the rainy season (I questioned that).  Oh, and I had to pay 215 shillings (only a couple of dollars) to use the bike.  I was now getting a bit frustrated about having to pay here and there for everything.  I declined his guiding offer and hopped on my bike. 


An interesting map of the area at the entrance...looks like they used child labour to make it.


The ride to the canyon was easy, as it was mostly slightly downhill.  You could hardly see the decline, but the pedaling was fairly effortless.  I passed three foreigners whom I guessed were European. 


The first views in the park:

There were a few people rock climbing here.


My second sighting of zebras in Kenya.

Got buzzed by a gyrocopter taking a tourist around.  Unfortunately I was a bit slow to get the video recording.

Arriving at the starting area for the hiking, I was approached by a guide who gave me the rundown on the options.  I could do a short hike, 40 minutes, for 2000 shillings, a medium hike for 3000 or a long one for 4000.  I wanted to at least do the short one but adding up my costs for the day, I was over $60 for just a 7 km bicycle ride and now maybe a 40-minute hike…seemed a bit excessive.  I decided to wait for the three guys that I passed to show up and perhaps we could go together as a group.  They eventually turned up (I was surprised that they took so long as they looked 20-25 years younger than me).  They were on the fence about the hike and said that they might just cycle around more.  I was a bit surprised as it wasn’t much money if you were 4 people.  Two of the guys were from France, and the other lived in the US (although I think he was French).  They lied down in the grass and proceeded to have a nap.

 

Okay Dave, buck up…you will not be here again in your lifetime, just pay the money and do the hike.  I chose the short hike, not just because it was the cheapest, but it was now 1 pm and the sun was blazing.  My guide was a tall man named Zambia, who was married with 4 kids from 22 years-old down to 8, and he was 49 years-old.


Entering the canyon area:

Good to know...

An animal ossuary.

One of the big five...the buffalo.

Doing my Fred Flintstone workout...that's a buffalo's leg bone.



It's actually almost hard to tell that I'm standing on a ledge that is about 100' above the canyon.



The jumping photos took enough takes...that I was about to jump off the ledge!

Zambia was great and amazingly had been working in the park for 17 years.  We stopped here and there, with me taking photos.  He was surprised at my speed and decided to take me on the “medium” hike, even though I’d only paid for the short one.  That meant that we descended into the canyon and then walked up it a ways, until we had to backtrack.


Very green moss forming on the wall.



My guide Zambia:

The water was warm.  There's a lot of geothermal activity here, enough so that they have some geothermal rigs turning the steam into electricity.





Some basalt rocks that Zambia smashed open.  You can see my foot in the bottom left for perspective of the size.

The rock was pretty hot from the sun.

Climbing back up:

Back on top, starting to head back.  If you zoom in, on the horizon on the right you can see steam coming up from one of the rigs.

In the end it cost me the same as I tipped him the 1000 shillings extra that I would have paid for the longer hike, but I was glad that it was going into his pocket as he had turned my slight grumpiness about the constant money grabbing around.

 

The ride back on the bike wasn’t as bad as I expected.  I was lucky that the sun shaded out due to developing cumulus clouds about 10 minutes into my ride.  When I reached the park gate, I asked if I could just continue down to the main road where the bike originally came from, and they were fine with that.  It was a bumpy ride, but I hardly had to pedal since it was downhill.  I caught boda boda and enjoyed a nice evening back at my accommodation.

 

The plan was to catch a matatu back to Nairobi the next day and then the train to Mombasa the day after that.  Time to head to the hot and humid coast.

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