Thursday, November 9, 2023

Golfing in Kampala

November 6th, 2023 

In the morning, I headed back to the Ugandan Wildlife Authority to try and make my reservation.  The place was packed.   I sat down on the only available chair and wondered how I was supposed to find someone from a company who would facilitate me buying a permit.  Most of the people, about 15 of them, looked like they belonged to tour companies who were there to buy multiple permits.  After a while I was finally able to talk to one lady, Sandra, and she let me know that there was a permit available for the date I was looking for as well as the location, as there are a few entrances into Bwindi National Park.  Sandra asked me if I was paying by cash or credit card, I was going for the latter.  She disappeared for five minutes and returned only to say “There’s been a bit of a pickle.”  I assumed the worst, but she just said that I’d have to wait in the “sitting” line up to be able to pay with a card.  I guess if I paid with cash, the transaction would have been relatively quick.

 

I sat for almost an hour and nobody seemed to move.  I think I saw two or three people leave the office and I figured this seemed like a waste of time.  I asked Sandra if I could return the following day and pay with cash, and I could.  I headed to the bank and withdrew $600 USD, as I had a $100 bill with me that I brought from Canada.  Stupidly, I didn’t think that that bill was an old one and wouldn’t be accepted by the Wildlife Authority.  Oh well, I’ll figure that out tomorrow.

 

After over 2 hours in the office, it was now 12:15, a lot later than I expected to be heading to the golf course.  I briefly contemplated delaying the round until tomorrow, but the weather forecast didn’t look good and today was decent weather.  Let’s go.  I grabbed a boda boda (motorcycle taxi) to the course and walked into reception.  The same lady was behind the counter from Saturday when I went in to ask some questions.  She asked if I had a collared shirt, since I was only wearing a t-shirt.  Damn, didn’t think of that, and she stated that she figured I would know that.  I did bring a long sleeved, collared shirt with me just in case of some kind of “semi-formal affair” that I may go to during my travels.  I hopped on another boda boda, got him to take me back to the hostel, grabbed my shirt and returned to the golf course. 

 

This time a young caddie named Timothy greeted me at the entrance.  He seemed like a nice young man so we headed inside the gate.  Back at reception, I showed the lady my long sleeve shirt, only to find out that it was no good.  It had to be a collared golf shirt, a short-sleeved shirt.  The solution was to buy a shirt from the pro shop and I figured what the hell, let’s do this.  I was directed towards the pro shop where the helpful lady found me a shirt that fit me, and not only that, it matched my pants!

 

I then had to deal with one of the pros at the course, Lawrence, who brought out some clubs that I could rent.  He asked me what my handicap was, and I’m nowhere near that in my golf game…I don’t even know how that is calculated.  I joked that my handicap was my swing! 

 

The round of golf was going to cost 100,000 Ugandan Shillings ($38 CAD) and the woman at reception told me that renting clubs would be 50,000, but Lawrence wanted 100,000.  We wandered over to reception and the woman there backed me up that rentals were 50,000.  Lawrence claimed that these were superior clubs than the rental ones plus it included balls and tees…oh, okay, those are expensive balls and tees!  I decided WTF, I’d come this far, went back and forth to the hostel, bought by golf shirt, let’s go.  I paid the 100,000 and finally Timothy and I headed to the links.

 

We walked onto the first tee box and another caddy said something to Timothy in the local language, Luganda.  “You need to tuck in your shirt” Timothy told me.  Boy, I’m not used to fancy golf courses.  I then told Timothy that I was okay with starting off from the women’s tee off, but that didn’t go over well with him.  Perhaps because there were other people and caddies around he didn’t want me to tee off from the ladies’ tee off.  Part of the reason for me wanting to go closer to start was that the first hole was a long par 5.  What a way to start!  And it was uphill to boot.  I tried to relax, focus on the basics…keep your left arm straight, know where the clubhead is at all times (thanks my flight park friend Michel for getting me to think about that) and keep your eye on the ball.  Whack!  I was actually quite pleased with my shot even though it only went about a hundred yards, into some rough grass past the ladies’ tee.  Timothy kindly picked the ball out of the rough and put it on shorter grass.  I had some more decent shots and my putting was good and I escaped with a 7…I was quite pleased with that. 

A close putt...




As we worked our way around the course, I got to know more about 23 year old Timothy.  He was the fifth in a family of seven children (big families are common here) and is attending university.  He is studying international politics and diplomacy with the hope of working for the UN one day.  Another endeavor that he was pursuing was taking lessons to get his driver’s licence.  It reminded me that a few days prior I had had a bit of a chuckle when I saw a young woman in a car with an instructor and a sign on the roof stating that it was a driving school.  What lessons do you need here?  There are hardly any traffic lights or roundabouts, and nobody seems to abide by any rules.  As I mentioned in a previous post, there were motorcycles driving down the wrong side of the road that had a median.  But good on Timothy, he’s trying to improve his situation in numerous ways.  He’s lucky too in that his driving school was very close to the golf course so when he’s not busy caddying, he runs over there for another lesson.

 

In Canada I only ever play 9 holes of golf.  That’s generally enough for me, plus the course I play at is only a 9-hole course.  I had asked at the pro shop if there was a difference in price if I played 9 or 18 holes, and there wasn’t.  Since my general golf game isn’t that good (I was playing at least double bogey golf on the first 7 holes), I was a bit surprised when Timothy asked, and suggested, that we play the back nine as well.  He had caddied in the morning for a woman who had shot an 82, a very good score for 18 holes, so I figured he must be getting fed up with me, but he wasn’t, so we continued onto the back nine.  I did teach Timothy one thing about golf…the ever important “foot wedge”!  (where you kick the ball into a more favorable lie).


The tee off on hole 11:


Here's how the shot went...

My caddy Timothy:


At hole 13, we caught up to a threesome (we’re talking golf terms here people!).  The tee off was up on a hill and it backtracked to where we came from when we had finished the previous hole.  Timothy told me to head up the hill and he would stay there to watch for my ball as there was a small creek at the base of the hill before the hole headed back up another hill.  It was another long par 5 and I was starting to get a bit tired, I’d even worn away the skin on my third finger of my right hand.  One of the guys had lost his ball and was taking time to find it when I saw Timothy start to walk up to the tee box.  He suggested that we skip the next two holes as the tee box for hole 16 was nearby.  I fully agreed with that…three more holes and I definitely would have had my fill.


Yet another par 5, hole 13 that we decided to skip.

Yup, the golf shirt definitely matches my pants!


I asked Timothy if he wanted to take a shot.  He nervously looked around for another other staff members, took off his caddy pinny, and took a whack at a ball.  I lost it but he had skyed it a bit.  “Try again Timothy”.  The next one was a better shot.  He ended up playing the hole with me and should have had a par, but he missed a short putt.  He put on his pinny on the next hole, not wanting to push his luck and getting caught by some staff member, but I enjoyed playing a hole with him.

 

Hole 18...almost done.

I finished off with a decent last hole, thanked Timothy and gave him a generous tip and then sat back on the patio and enjoyed a few well deserved beers.  It was an expensive round by my standards (about $100 USD when all was said and done), but well worth it.


The view of the 18th from the patio:


My first round of golf in Africa!

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