October 15th, 2023
From the Olympic
Tower yesterday, I could see the Allianz Stadium off
in the distance on the north end of Munich.
It is home to the FC Bayern Munich, one
of the premier teams in the top soccer (well, really football) teams in the
Bundesliga, Germany’s top league. I’m
not the biggest soccer fan but while I was stuck in India, I met a British
fellow who educated me about the nuances of the Premier League…who used to play
for who, why this manager was good, etc.
And in India, the 3 pm English time games on Saturdays were at 8:30 in
the evening in Goa, which was perfect for watching in sports bars while having
dinner. Now, I have to admit that I’ve
never really watch the Bundesliga, but I had definitely hear of FC Bayern
Munich as they are quite a successful team and are usually in the Champions
League, the league that features the top teams from the top leagues in Europe.
I decided to buy a ticket for a stadium tour, and I’m glad that I did. The stadium seats 70,000 people and is the second largest venue in Germany. The outside is cladded with 2874 foil air panels which stay inflated by a differential air pressure. Each panel can be independently lit to show either the red for the FC Bayern team or maybe white for the German National team and the stadium can be seen up to 80 kilometres away on a clear night. The place also boasts the biggest underground car park with 9800 parking spaces.
Before the tour my ticket included access to the FC Bayern
museum. I could have shown up 3 hours before
the tour but I was quite sure that I wouldn’t need that much time. In fact, it was a bit of a comedy of errors
to get there. I walked from my hostel to
the nearby Ostbahnhof train station and went to a bakery in the complex to get
a chocolate croissant as I had 4-5 minutes to spare. Well the lady serving helped the guy in front
of me, but then helped a few other customers who were congregated in front of
the counter. I wasn’t sure if I was invisible
or what. Of course some older lady
ordered a bunch of things and by the time the croissant was in my hands and I
was up on the platform, the S8 train I wanted had gone. Numerous trains ran the same 4-5 stops to Marienplatz
so I quickly tried to figure out what my other options were. I thought I found my solution, ran over to
that platform only to watch that train pull away. It happened a third time. I resigned myself to catching the next S8
train.
I arrived at the stadium about 45 minutes before my tour. It was a bit of a jaunt from the train station to the stadium, close to a kilometre. I was amazed by the size of a wind turbine near the building…I’d never seen one so big!
Approaching the stadium:There were about 30 others in the English tour I was on and
our guide was a local guy Patrick, with slightly darker skin and a pretty good afro. We walked 3-4 minutes through the concessions
area to the far end of the stadium. I
couldn’t help but think of the narrow walkway back at the Olympic stadium from
the day before. In comparison, this was
like a highway. We ventured out to the upper
part of the lower stands. The stadium
was impressive on the inside. The roof
was not completely closed in but it would protect most of the fans if it
rained. At the far end, the colours of
the seats were arranged to form an impressively large representation of the FC
Bayern Munich logo.
Walking through the concessions area:
Subsequently we headed down to the seats behind the home and
away team benches, followed by entering the bowels of the arena. First up was the media room, where the
managers must deal with the press before and after the game.
We visited the home team’s dressing room and I have to admit that I was a little underwhelmed. Granted the stadium was built in 2005 but I just thought there would be a bit more pizazz in the room. Still cool to see.
Back in Munich, I wandered over to the Hofbrauhaus, Munich’s famous beer tavern. It’s a place that feels like Octoberfest every day of the year. I recall going there on a Sunday in March when I was backpacking in 1995 and I remember it being off the wall. It was a Sunday again, around 5 pm and the place was packed. Being by myself, and it was hot, humid and loud in the place, I decided not to stay…and unfortunately, I was only able to get a short video of it before my phone battery died.
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